By THOMAS ADAMSON AP Fashion Writer
PARIS (AP) — Stéphane Rolland went back to what he does best on Tuesday: unadulterated couture. This season at Paris Couture Week, Rolland stripped away gimmicks and let the clothes do the talking, unveiling a dazzling palette of ivory, black, and red — with giant spangles shimmering like stardust or cosmic fish scales.
A live string orchestra set the mood as Rolland’s signature silhouettes reshaped the female form: mermaid gowns hugged the body, giant tulle trains trailed behind, and severe white dresses with razor-sharp shoulders brought a surreal, intergalactic edge. Space-age references ran throughout, from pointy shoulders to jewels worn as talismans — adorned on gowns or set on the forehead like interplanetary insignia.
It marked a confident return to classic Rolland after recent seasons experimenting with format and mood. Last year, Rolland broke with tradition, staging a collaborative, student-led show inspired by the serenity of the desert. But on Tuesday, the focus was undiluted couture, delivered with maximum impact.
A celebrity favorite — counting Kim Kardashian and Cardi B among his fans — Rolland is one of Paris fashion’s last couture independents. His trademark mix of sculptural tailoring, high drama, and Parisian mystique was on full display, proving that sometimes, the boldest move is simply perfecting your own signature.